Post by shifter502 on Nov 25, 2010 0:29:23 GMT -6
What’s up Homies! I told you guys I would help out in the tech department with some write-ups so here is my first. Below is a diagram for a reversible 12 volt circuit I used when I added power locks to a 2001 S-10 mini truck I had about 8 years ago. It’s really cheap to build and can be used for other applications like power windows or liner actuators. It cost about 20 bucks in parts to build depending on how detailed you wanna get like soldering vs. crimping or fuses vs. resetable circuit breakers. Anyway here is the low down on how it works
First the Hardware.
You'll need a 3 prong momentary toggle switch. There are all sizes and brands but what’s important is the amp rating. It should be at least a 30 amp momentary toggle switch because the relays are 30 amp. I know that the 30 amp rating is based on the max amp load across pins 30, 87a, and 87 not pins 85 and 86 but its better to have matching components. A spare 3 prong switch that you would use in your hydro switch box will work fine.
Next is the 5 prong relays. Every auto parts store has them and they are pretty cheap. There are 2 common types and they look the same except for one has an internal diode across pins 85 and 86. A diode acts like a one way gate. It only lets electricity flow in one direction, like the check valve in a hydro setup. If you follow the diagram I am providing it wont matter which you use.
Next comes the actuator, more commonly known as the power lock motor. Most that I've seen around here have only 2 wires and cost about 7 bucks. Again, they come in all shapes and sizes. Some are better than others so, pick wisely. I won’t cover mounting them since how that is done depends on the vehicle. Just make sure the mount is sturdy and the armature is connected as close to the lock mechanism on the latch as possible. Also make sure it doesn’t interfere with any other door internals like speakers or window mechanisms.
You'll also need various colors of wire, connectors, tape, etc. I prefer to solder and heat shrink my connects but you can do it which ever way your cool with. Now to explain the circuit.
Starting with the power source you'll need to provide 12 volt power to the center pin of the toggle switch and pin 87 of both relays. This can either be constant power, like for power locks, or switched by the ignition, for like power windows. On the line leading to the center pin of the toggle there should be a 30 amps slow blow fuse or resetable circuit breaker. This is outlined on the diagram as F1. The purpose for this fuse is to protect against a bad relay causing damage to the rest of the circuit. The second fuse, F2, is on the line feeding both pins labeled 87. The size of this fuse depends on the load type of the actuator but the fuse should never be more than 30 amps. If you need to use a fuse larger than 30 amps you will need to upgrade the relays to match.
Pins 85 and 87a of both relays are to be connected to chassis ground. Pin 85 gets grounded so when power is applied to pin 86 the relay can close the circuit across pin 87 and 30. Pin 87a goes to ground to complete the circuit when power is applied to the opposing relay.
At the switch, the center pin has 12 volts. The first pin will be connected to pin 86 on relay R1. The third pin will be connected to pin 86 on relay R2.
At the actuator, the wire that, when 12 volts is applied causes the actuator to expand, goes to pin 30 on R1. The other wire goes to pin 30 on R2 to make the actuator contract when the circuit is reversed. Confused yet? Don’t be. I have other diagrams to explain.
This diagram is of the circuit at rest. Than means the switch has not been moved and no current is flowing. The colors on the diagram are only to separate the different parts of the circuit. You can use whatever color wire you want just be consistant.
This is the flow when the switch is moved to the lock position. Before someone has a cow, I know that when a switch is moved like this one is it contacts the pin on the opposite side but this is just to illustrate my point.
This is the flow when the switch is moved to the unlock position.
Well there you go. If you guys have any questions just let me know. What I like about this circuit is that its simple, cheap, and can be used for just about any thing. I think I'd use it to raise and lower my hood using two long stroke liner actuators.
First the Hardware.
You'll need a 3 prong momentary toggle switch. There are all sizes and brands but what’s important is the amp rating. It should be at least a 30 amp momentary toggle switch because the relays are 30 amp. I know that the 30 amp rating is based on the max amp load across pins 30, 87a, and 87 not pins 85 and 86 but its better to have matching components. A spare 3 prong switch that you would use in your hydro switch box will work fine.
Next is the 5 prong relays. Every auto parts store has them and they are pretty cheap. There are 2 common types and they look the same except for one has an internal diode across pins 85 and 86. A diode acts like a one way gate. It only lets electricity flow in one direction, like the check valve in a hydro setup. If you follow the diagram I am providing it wont matter which you use.
Next comes the actuator, more commonly known as the power lock motor. Most that I've seen around here have only 2 wires and cost about 7 bucks. Again, they come in all shapes and sizes. Some are better than others so, pick wisely. I won’t cover mounting them since how that is done depends on the vehicle. Just make sure the mount is sturdy and the armature is connected as close to the lock mechanism on the latch as possible. Also make sure it doesn’t interfere with any other door internals like speakers or window mechanisms.
You'll also need various colors of wire, connectors, tape, etc. I prefer to solder and heat shrink my connects but you can do it which ever way your cool with. Now to explain the circuit.
Starting with the power source you'll need to provide 12 volt power to the center pin of the toggle switch and pin 87 of both relays. This can either be constant power, like for power locks, or switched by the ignition, for like power windows. On the line leading to the center pin of the toggle there should be a 30 amps slow blow fuse or resetable circuit breaker. This is outlined on the diagram as F1. The purpose for this fuse is to protect against a bad relay causing damage to the rest of the circuit. The second fuse, F2, is on the line feeding both pins labeled 87. The size of this fuse depends on the load type of the actuator but the fuse should never be more than 30 amps. If you need to use a fuse larger than 30 amps you will need to upgrade the relays to match.
Pins 85 and 87a of both relays are to be connected to chassis ground. Pin 85 gets grounded so when power is applied to pin 86 the relay can close the circuit across pin 87 and 30. Pin 87a goes to ground to complete the circuit when power is applied to the opposing relay.
At the switch, the center pin has 12 volts. The first pin will be connected to pin 86 on relay R1. The third pin will be connected to pin 86 on relay R2.
At the actuator, the wire that, when 12 volts is applied causes the actuator to expand, goes to pin 30 on R1. The other wire goes to pin 30 on R2 to make the actuator contract when the circuit is reversed. Confused yet? Don’t be. I have other diagrams to explain.
This diagram is of the circuit at rest. Than means the switch has not been moved and no current is flowing. The colors on the diagram are only to separate the different parts of the circuit. You can use whatever color wire you want just be consistant.
This is the flow when the switch is moved to the lock position. Before someone has a cow, I know that when a switch is moved like this one is it contacts the pin on the opposite side but this is just to illustrate my point.
This is the flow when the switch is moved to the unlock position.
Well there you go. If you guys have any questions just let me know. What I like about this circuit is that its simple, cheap, and can be used for just about any thing. I think I'd use it to raise and lower my hood using two long stroke liner actuators.