Post by 87cuttlashopper on Oct 14, 2008 19:13:47 GMT -6
Not alot of people like to do this...every hopper out there kinda keeps to themselves but I would like to share some insight that many may be wondering.
1- The most important thing you need to remember is...YOUR HOPPING THE CAR, make sure that the frame is tight for horizontal movement, eliminate the shockwave created by the landing pressure on the frame. Keep everything tight, engine mounts, control arm bushings, battery and pump rack.
2- Plumbing....you can go with either one of these combos, 3/4'' block and 3/4'' elbow or straight fitting, 3/4'' check valve with inlet on the y-block at 3/4'' and 1/2''out. Y-block will allow the use of two 3/8'' lines to the front strokes, I preffer the ''DAYCO'' brand which allows more flow than the Aeroquip from Burton Auto. Or if you preffer, you can use the same plumbing on the pump and use one #8 hose to the front, y-block split to two #6 lines under the hood. A #11 gear with 1-1/4 inch strokes will be sufficient on eight batteries, if you use six batteries than down size the gear to a #9. Always use a high quality release valve like ADEX or BMH ADEL-II, these valves are very accurate and can withstand the landing pressure spike your pump will create. Your desired pressure spike on one hit after the car is locked up should go past 15,000 psi, DO NOT DO THIS MORE THAN ONCE! you will tear into the gear or bust a hydraulic hose...remember the average burt pressure of a hydraulic line is 20,000 psi., these are for hoses rated at 5,000 psi working pressure. As far as fluid, you want to use a good hydraulic oil with anti wear properties, AW-32 for newer gears and AW-46 for older gears. Hydraulic oil has anti-wear and anti-cavitation additives. It tranfers hydraulic pressure into mechanical movement better than any other oil out there, which most are made to lubricate, not to create pressure.
3-Piston tanks....Dont be fooled by the name brand, the idea of a piston pump is to fill the ''void'' in the vacuum inlet on the gear. When you spin a gear at our incredible rate the gear WILL starve, the piston pump will force fluid into the inlet creating a more efficient displacement of oil. A piston pump will not add to your high pressure spike..it only makes your pump more efficiant and gets you up there in less hits on the switch, and please use a blow proof or heavy duty steel seal on the gear if you add any kind of pressure to your tanks.
4- Springs...Use nothing more than 3-1/2 tons on cars like cuttlas, regals, grand prix and monte carlos, use 4 tons and up on cars like impalas and caddy's.
5- Split belly.... this method of ''tweeking'' the frame is to allow more travel underneath the crossmember, a regular front set-up will bottom out and smack the concrete or street before taking full advantage of your coils. When your crossmember hits the ground, it does not let the coils do thier work, your coils need to almost collapse into a solid stack before unloading the force onto the car.
6- Batteries...use only high CCA batteries on hoppers, prefferably 900 CCA and up. Charge your batteries once a week and check them after a charge with a meter at static, should be around 13 volts per battery.
7- Cylinders....use only high quality competition cylinders for your hoppers, pro hopper comp and BMH comp are pretty good, use the BMH fat sticks for heavier cars...you wont be disappointed. If you do not have a heavy car and want to use a #13 gear, use the fat sticks for BMH.
These are just some basic things to remember when building a hopper, anyone can add to this discussion if they want to. I do not want to keep our area from achieveing the hieghts that we see at other places on the map. Please respact one another and call out cars that are in your catagory, do not attempt to discourage a fellow hopper, allow them to look at your set-up before the hop, this is one thing keeping everyone down. Respect for everyone in the game...this shit is hard work, peace.
1- The most important thing you need to remember is...YOUR HOPPING THE CAR, make sure that the frame is tight for horizontal movement, eliminate the shockwave created by the landing pressure on the frame. Keep everything tight, engine mounts, control arm bushings, battery and pump rack.
2- Plumbing....you can go with either one of these combos, 3/4'' block and 3/4'' elbow or straight fitting, 3/4'' check valve with inlet on the y-block at 3/4'' and 1/2''out. Y-block will allow the use of two 3/8'' lines to the front strokes, I preffer the ''DAYCO'' brand which allows more flow than the Aeroquip from Burton Auto. Or if you preffer, you can use the same plumbing on the pump and use one #8 hose to the front, y-block split to two #6 lines under the hood. A #11 gear with 1-1/4 inch strokes will be sufficient on eight batteries, if you use six batteries than down size the gear to a #9. Always use a high quality release valve like ADEX or BMH ADEL-II, these valves are very accurate and can withstand the landing pressure spike your pump will create. Your desired pressure spike on one hit after the car is locked up should go past 15,000 psi, DO NOT DO THIS MORE THAN ONCE! you will tear into the gear or bust a hydraulic hose...remember the average burt pressure of a hydraulic line is 20,000 psi., these are for hoses rated at 5,000 psi working pressure. As far as fluid, you want to use a good hydraulic oil with anti wear properties, AW-32 for newer gears and AW-46 for older gears. Hydraulic oil has anti-wear and anti-cavitation additives. It tranfers hydraulic pressure into mechanical movement better than any other oil out there, which most are made to lubricate, not to create pressure.
3-Piston tanks....Dont be fooled by the name brand, the idea of a piston pump is to fill the ''void'' in the vacuum inlet on the gear. When you spin a gear at our incredible rate the gear WILL starve, the piston pump will force fluid into the inlet creating a more efficient displacement of oil. A piston pump will not add to your high pressure spike..it only makes your pump more efficiant and gets you up there in less hits on the switch, and please use a blow proof or heavy duty steel seal on the gear if you add any kind of pressure to your tanks.
4- Springs...Use nothing more than 3-1/2 tons on cars like cuttlas, regals, grand prix and monte carlos, use 4 tons and up on cars like impalas and caddy's.
5- Split belly.... this method of ''tweeking'' the frame is to allow more travel underneath the crossmember, a regular front set-up will bottom out and smack the concrete or street before taking full advantage of your coils. When your crossmember hits the ground, it does not let the coils do thier work, your coils need to almost collapse into a solid stack before unloading the force onto the car.
6- Batteries...use only high CCA batteries on hoppers, prefferably 900 CCA and up. Charge your batteries once a week and check them after a charge with a meter at static, should be around 13 volts per battery.
7- Cylinders....use only high quality competition cylinders for your hoppers, pro hopper comp and BMH comp are pretty good, use the BMH fat sticks for heavier cars...you wont be disappointed. If you do not have a heavy car and want to use a #13 gear, use the fat sticks for BMH.
These are just some basic things to remember when building a hopper, anyone can add to this discussion if they want to. I do not want to keep our area from achieveing the hieghts that we see at other places on the map. Please respact one another and call out cars that are in your catagory, do not attempt to discourage a fellow hopper, allow them to look at your set-up before the hop, this is one thing keeping everyone down. Respect for everyone in the game...this shit is hard work, peace.